The Tiger Lily is botanically Lilium Lancifolium or Lilium Tigrinum. It is a very tall late summer blooming bulb with somewhat globe-shaped flowers that face downward. The stalks, sometimes getting up to 6 feet tall, have long, narrow, stiff, dark green leaves growing all up the stems very much like its cousins the Madonna, Asiatic, Oriental and Easter Lily. Tiny black dots start to grow where the leaves connect with the stalk soon after the flowers buds appear. Some call these seeds but they are truly tiny bulblets and when these drop they promptly root on the surrounding ground to extend the colony of Lilies. These can be collected, of course, and planted wherever you like but be certain to plant them immediately as they dry out quickly and then are no longer viable.
The Tiger Lily does best in humus rich, well draining soil and prefers to have their roots shaded and cool. A thick mulch will accomplish this nicely. The flowering tops like dappled shade but can tolerate full sun quite well when given plenty of water. Their roots must never dry out. The Tiger Lily is an extremely hardy plant growing in zones 3-8. The flowers are 4 inches wide with six long petals which curve completely back to touch the base and to reveal the spotting all along the petals. These beautiful flowers have 6-8 long, protruding stamens of the same color tipped with a bit of bright yellow. The only thing lacking is a fragrance.
The blossom’s traditional color is orange with dark brown, black or purplish spots, just like the colors of a tiger, although there have been cultivars recently developed in white, cream, yellow, pink and red all with the distinctive spots. The spots is where they get their funny name. Yes, I know exactly what you’re thinking. Leopards have spots and Tigers have stripes. Therefore the flowers should be called Leopard Lilies but neither one of us were there to name them back in the day so we are stuck with the ridiculous name of Tiger Lily.
Regardless of what they are called the Tiger Lily makes a wonderful addition to the back of a perennial border, in a cutting garden, a shrub border or to add height and interest to a butterfly or hummingbird garden. Yes, the Tiger Lily is a favorite of both the Butterfly and the Hummingbird. You will see them fluttering around them endlessly.
These plants are not to be confused with the common, orange Native Daylily or Hemerocallis Fulva which can be seen growing in huge clumps all along highways, country
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everyone can grow Tea Plant.Now you too can grow your own tea plants. Live tea plants in your own yard! You can grow a tea plants ea sly in the ground a greenhouse or on a porch where you can bring in during the winter.
Grown tea Plants in the ground. Camellia sinensis likes well-drained and sandy soil that is on the acidic side or neutral, preferring a pH between 5 and 7. You can add sulfur to the ground to acidify the soil. Don’t add Lime as will make the soil too alkaline. When planting, add a generous amount of humus such as compost leaf mold, or coarse peat to the soil.Be careful not to plant too deeply; as with azaleas and rhododendrons, the base of the stem should be slightly higher that the surrounding soil. A two to four-inch layer of mulch is desired to help the soil retain moisture and to minimize alternate freezing and thawing in winter. During the first season, water a new plant throughly once a week unless there has been at least one inch of rain. if winter is dry one, watering may also be necessary during mild spells. camellias are not heavy feeders, so fertilizer should be used sparingly. An acidic fertilizer to remove weak or dead branches, to control size or leggy growth,or to renew the vigor of older plants. heavy pruning is best done in spring, before the plants have begun to product new growth. Although it’s grown commercially in fully sun, many experts recommend giving it open, high shade, not the shade of deciduous trees with competitive root systems, but under tall pines.
Growing tea plants in a pot. The directions for growing the plants in a pot are the same as above, only use a fast draining soil mix of sand, peat, fine bark shaving and soil. Do not over water! Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings. report as the plant grows or thin back the roofs if you plant of keep the Tea plant in one pot for the life of the shrub. Like fine wine, the quality, flavor, and aroma of tea is influenced by its surroundings. Soil, climate, temperature, rail fall, and altitude all contribute to the unique characteristics of each plant and leaf.
Processing you own tea. Once your tea plant is growing well, you’ll need to harvest and process you tea leaves. From your plant, you can make black, green.
Green Tea pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.Blot the leaves dry, and let dry shade for a few hours steam the leaves like you would vegetables on your stove for about a minute. for a different flavor, try roasting them in a skillet for 2 minutes instead of steaming. Spread the leaves on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 250F for 20 minutes. Store the dried tea leaves in an air-tight container.
Black Tea pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds. Roll the leaves between your hands, and crush them until the leaves start to darken and turn red. Spread them out on a tray, and leave them in a cool location for 2-3 days. Dry air-tight container. Once you get the hang of it, try experimenting with jasmine or hibiscus flowers for a lovely summer tea right from your garden.
Camellia sinensisi is an evergreen shrub grown in part shade to full shade. Most are hardly from zone 6B to zone 7B. meaning that frost hardiness for most varieties is 25F in pot and about 0 to 5F in open ground. they love warm wet summers and moderately cold dry winter, but can prosper surprisingly well in a range of adverse climatic conditions, tolerating dry summers and wet winter. Tea plants can be altitude between 3000 and 7000 feet. Wild tea bushes grow to 50 feet or more, commercially grown tea plants are pruned to about four or five feet high so that picket can reach the top leaves.
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Growing Bachelor’s Buttons
Bachelor’s Buttons, which are also known as Cornflowers because they tend to grow wild in grain fields in Europe, are so easy to grow that they are a favorite among even the youngest of budding gardeners. Choose from traditional colors such as blue or white, or pastel shades of pink or rose. Old-fashioned varieties such as Frosty Mixed’ can grow as tall as 2-3 feet. If you prefer a smaller version, try a dwarf form like Jubilee Gem’ which grows to only 12 inches.
Bachelor’s Buttons flower from summer to the first frost and are commonly used in cutting and cottage style gardens. Tall varieties will fill in an informal, sunny border with ease. Compact varieties look beautiful as edging plants in a more formal garden. They also do well when planted in containers with other, taller flowers.
Plant Bachelor’s Buttons in full sun in well drained soil after the last frost. They don’t usually need amended soil-average soil is fine. They are easily grown from seed, planted inch deep and about 1 inch apart. If you choose seedlings, make sure you buy young, compact plants that are not leggy and plant them 6 to 8 inches apart. Water well whenever the soil starts to feel dry. Mulch to preserve moisture. Cut flowers and remove spent blooms regularly to encourage continuing blooms.
Since they are self sowing, you may not need to plant as many seeds the following year. However, since birds enjoy feasting on the seeds, you may want to remove some seed heads and save them to replant in the spring.
Bachelor’s Buttons are generally fairly resistant to disease, but they can occasionally be bothered by rust: a fungus that causes orange spots to form on the leaves. Water early in the day to allow the soil to dry enough that the roots are not sitting in soggy soil. Remove and destroy in infected leaves.
Cut Bachelor’s Buttons as soon as they bloom. Place in plain water overnight. They will last for up to a week in an arrangement. They are also beautiful when used in dried flower arrangements. Simply cut long stems and hang them upside down in a warm dry place until dry.
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