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Grow Taller Tips

How To Grow Organic Cigar Tobacco

Nicotiana Tabacum – Solanaceae or Nightshade

I’ve been working in or around tobacco since I was a kid. I worked the fields of the tobacco belt as a 12 year old, and in the years since have had an infatuation with the many different strains of tobacco which are available to the home gardener. The beautiful plants produce a medley of varying blossoms with different colors, shapes and sizes, and is quite an attractive, enjoyable plant to grow.

Unlike the tobacco grown when I was a kid, the varieties that I have focused my attention on are more exotic and require specialized treatment to ensure a “bumper crop”. Connoisseur tobacco is grown in much smaller quantities than the 300 acre fields I was accustomed to cultivating and tending as a child. This is because each plant requires more TLC from the grower, and one BIG part of treating, cultivating and caring for these wonderful giant plants, is to leave the chemical sprayer in the barn. I’ll skip the organic lecture, it’s pretty self explanatory. While I realize that smoking anything habitually will eventually cause health problems, it should go without saying that the tobacco produced using only natural additives is considered the lesser of 2 evils. If you think it would harm a person to have prolonged physical exposure to a certain chemical, why in the world would you spray that same chemical on the vegetation that you’re going to consume on a daily basis? Organically cultivated crops may cost more, and involve more work, but the reward is quite satisfying.

When to get started is a timing issue that has everything to do with where you are planning to grow your crop. Tobacco can never be touched by frost, so germinate your seedlings according to your regions climate. Seeds can be bought very inexpensively online. A quick google of ‘tobacco seeds’ will produce plenty of stores that would love to sell you their seeds. To produce cigar quality tobacco, you’ll need at least 2 different varieties of tobacco. I suggest HAVANA 503B for your natural wrappers, and SMALL STALK BLACK MAMMOTH for your maduro wrapped cigars. The wrapper type tobacco produces a thinner, less veiny leaf and should be reserved for outer cigar wrappers only. For the filler, the basic choice is VIRGINIA GOLD but as a grower you can produce different varieties and create your very own blend. And remember, you will need much more filler tobacco than wrapper, so plant your seedlings accordingly. AND ALWAYS KEEP YOUR DIFFERENT PLANT TYPES MARKED FOR IDENTIFICATION! Keep these ID signs with their respective plants throughout the growing and curing process or you’ll not have a clue as to which tobacco is which, especially after curing.

How To Grow Organic Cigar Tobacco

It takes anywhere from 6-12 weeks for seedlings to mature into plants large enough to be transplanted into their permanent spot in the garden. This figure averages out to around 9 weeks, just a touch over 2 months. Here in the southeastern united states, the climate dictates that you should germinate and begin planting your seeds indoors in late February, early March. If you have a late spring and frost is still threatening you may have to keep the plants indoors longer. I start all seedlings indoors, in individual cups, with a mild soil blend that is kept moist and warm. Some people sterilize the soil prior to planting seeds either by burning, steaming or chemical applications. This soil sterilization process helps prevent disease, weeds and even insects and is recommended for organic projects. Prevention is always easier that cure. Take this important first step and use only sterilized soil to start your seedlings.

In the meantime, while it’s still bitter cold outside, you can be preparing the spot where you plan to transplant your tobacco seedlings. The soil should be cultivated to remove old root systems. Apply generous amounts of compost and manure and work it deeply into the existing soil. An unpleasant chore, but one that is absolutely necessary if you want your tobacco to thrive and produce large healthy leaves suitable for working into cigars.

Once the seedlings are around 8 inches tall, they will be ready for transplanting. Growing the hearty tobacco plant really isn’t very difficult. There are topping and suckering stages during the second half of the plants life which are necessary to ensure that the nutrients are delivered to where it counts, the main leaves, and not wasted on useless parts of the plant. Do not use sucker suppressing chemicals! Sucker your plants by hand. The two main types of sucker control chemicals are contact and systemic chemicals. Contact chemicals work by burning young suckers that are newly formed. Systemic chemicals inhibit cell division and can either work locally or throughout the entire plant. Maleic hydrazide is the most common systemic chemical used for sucker control. Avoid these chemicals like the plague because they are certainly not naturally occurring compounds. One drop of either of these harsh chemicals, anywhere near your plants, and your efforts to produce an organic crop will have been in vain. Spend the time and do it right, and just break the little suckers off as they shoot out of the limb/stalk intersection. Once the top has reached 12 inches break or cut it off and discard it. Keep your plants watered but don’t over do it. Tobacco is a moisture sensitive crop, and can easily drown. Make sure your plants have sufficient drainage at all times. Standing water around your plants for very long is almost always fatal. Go to your crop after a hard rain to check that the water is running off. If it isn’t draining away you’ll need to cut small trenches to direct the water away.

Harvesting the tobacco should be done by hand. Never try to speed up the ripening process with pre-harvest chemicals which cause yellowing of the leaves so more can be harvested at one time. Plants indicate their ripeness by beginning to yellow, a signal that chlorophyll is beginning to break down. Each leaf should be carefully inspected before it is removed from the stalk to ensure that it is ready for harvest. If it is collected too soon, the curing process will be flawed. The leaves will ripen in stages, from the bottom up. Usually 3-4 passes are required to allow each stage of leaves to fully ripen. This process of collection is referred to as “priming”, and is used the majority of the time. Burly tobacco plants are stripped all at once, referred to as “stalk-cut”, and left in the field for 2-3 days to wilt before being sent to the curing facility.

Curing the tobacco is an entirely different subject. There is plenty of information readily available online, just do a quick search for “Curing Tobacco”.

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How To Grow Tomatoes In Your Vegetable Garden

For many people, growing big juicy tomatoes is part of what makes vegetable gardening so enjoyable. Whether purchasing plants from your local nursery or starting tomatoes from seed, there are a few basic steps to follow to ensure that you harvest an abundant crop at the end of the growing season. There are many different varieties of tomatoes to choose from, depending on whether you will be cooking, canning, slicing, or eating miniature or grape-like varieties right off the vine. Sweet 100ís are very abundant, and are good for salads as well as eating fresh from the garden. Roma tomatoes are good for making salsa, because the peels are not as tough as others so you donít need to peel the skins off. Romas are also known as the classic paste and sauce tomato. There are Early Girls, Early Boys, Big Boys, Big Mamas, Sweet Baby Girls, Beefsteaks, French Rose hybrids, Big Rainbow, specialty tomatoes and many more. So start by choosing the kind of tomato you would like to grow.

Planting Tomatoes from Seeds

Tomatoes grown from seed will require six to eight weeks before they can be planted in the garden. Purchase individual containers or flats, starter soil or mixture, and the seeds of your choice. Fill each container with soil, pressing it tightly to remove air and to avoid settling problems after watering. Typically, seed companies print instructions for planting right on the tomato seed package. Each variety is a little different so follow instructions carefully. Prepare a label identifying the type of tomato and the date started. You can make your own from Popsicle sticks or purchase them at the store or garden center.

Insert your label in the pot and mist with water. Place containers in a sunny window and keep seeds moist by placing a plastic bag over them. Small greenhouse containers are also available at your local nursery. Watch for seeds to germinate and remove plastic when plants emerge. Wean out weaker looking seedlings to give strong ones more room to grow. Keep moist by misting or watering tomatoes when needed. When plants have a second pair of leaves it is time to transplant these seedlings to your garden or a large pot in which they are to grow.

It is a good idea to harden off or acclimatize a plant to outdoor conditions before planting by setting it out in direct sun during the day and bringing it in at night. After a few days, the tomato plant will have adapted to the new surroundings and can be transplanted in the desired location. Place plants directly outdoors after the threat of frost in a shady location, out of the wind and protected from heavy rains.

Purchasing Started Plants

If you prefer to purchase plants from your garden center or greenhouse, select dark green plants that are stocky in size and that do not have any fruit. The fruit will stunt the plant growth and the total yield will be reduced. Tomatoes are one of the few plants that will tolerate being planted deeper than they sit in the pot. So a taller plant can be placed a little deeper if preferred. As mentioned, harden off the plant before moving it to a final location.

Preparing Garden Soil For Tomato Plants

The soil should be deep, loamy, and well-drained for the best harvest. Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8. The term pH balance refers to acidity or the alkalinity of your soil from a numerical scale of 1.0 to 14.0. The neutral point on the pH scale is 7.0. Higher than 6.5 indicates alkaline soil, lower than that indicates acidic soil.

Test kits are available at garden centers or through local horticultural organizations. To raise the soilís pH, work agriculture lime into the soil. Use sulfur to lower the pH of alkaline soil. Using fertilizers and compost amendments will also change the soilís pH over time. Adding decomposed organic compost will improve any soil structure. You can purchase or make your own compost. Once you have cultivated your garden area and prepared the soil, it is ready for the plantings.

Planting The Tomatoes

Inspect all of the transplants, looking for insects, wilting or blight. Plant only healthy plants. Tomatoes prefer full sun, so choose an area with at least six to eight hours of sun per day. Practice crop rotation in your vegetable gardening by planting tomatoes and other vegetables in a different spot every year. Tomatoes prefer to be planted by chives, parsley, marigolds, nasturtiums, garlic bulbs, and carrots. Avoid planting tomatoes by potatoes or members of the cabbage family.

For large healthy tomatoes, give them plenty of room to grow. Space plants twenty-four inches between rows and leave twenty-four inches between plants. With your shovel or spade, make holes slightly larger than the plants. Tap gently on the bottom of the individual container, loosening the soil and gently removing from the pot. Tomatoes are susceptible to cutworms, but placing a 3-4 inch nail next to each stem before planting or wrapping strips of newspaper around the bottom of the stems will help prevent these pests. A paper cup surrounding the stem also works well.

Place tomato plant in hole and back fill with soil until it is well compacted. Place a rack or cage around each individual plant to help support future growth. Water around the base of the plant, avoiding the foliage. Do not over water or soak the seedlings as this can promote disease and rot. Water early in the day to discourage blight.

Using a rake, spread organic mulch, such as weed-free straw, over plants at least two inches deep. These is an effective way to prevent weeds, preserve water and keep the soil warm, thus reducing the maintenance required for vegetable gardening. Fertilize the plants throughout the growing season with compost or organic matter. Water when needed and inspect leaves periodically for the signs of tomato blight and insects. If blight is discovered, remove any infected leaves and destroy them. Treat plant with a fungicide. Be sure to remove all debris from your garden in the fall, as blight can survive on the dried tomatoes over the winter.

Most tomatoes take 100-days to bear fruit, so follow these easy directions and get ready to harvest the fruits of your labors and enjoy that first BLT of the season.

Items Needed For Growing Tomatoes:

- Tomato seeds or plants

- Containers or flats

- A small greenhouse kit or plastic bags

- Starter soil or mixture

- Marking pen

- Popsicle sticks or labels

- Rake

- Spade and shovel

- Water, sun, adequate soil and patience

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How to grow eucalyptus

There are literally hundreds of species of Eucalyptus. Depending upon the variety, Eucalyptus can thrive in the harshest of environments, from the snow-covered mountains to the dry deserts. Known for their abundance across Australia, the Eucalyptus is used as a food source for the Koala bear as well as decorative pieces in floral arrangements.

Growing Eucalyptus successfully requires obtaining a variety that will flourish in your climate. The fast growing Eucalyptus is considered a cool-weather tree which will thrive in winters that stay above 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Smaller plants can be utilized as houseplants but are commonly discarded after a couple years because they outgrow their environment.

If given the space, the Eucalyptus can grow as tall as 300 feet (most varieties average 40 feet) and adding as much as 6-12 feet to their height each year. Indoor Eucalyptus plants should be placed in bright light but kept in a cool to warm environment. Indoor plants should be watered regularly with the water being cut back during the winter months.

Day 42-365

Outdoor Eucalyptus will have other factors that growers should consider. Most importantly, the tree or plant needs to be planted as soon as possible after purchasing. For climates that are prone to hot-dry summers, plant the Eucalyptus during the rainy season to early autumn.

The Eucalyptus can adapt to almost any soil type. Outdoor Eucalyptus should be planted in a sunny location with plenty of room to expand. Some varieties do not require full sun but a majority of species of Eucalyptus do. Water the tree fully before and after planting. Water regularly after planting and you should not let the tree completely dry out while it is still vulnerable. Allow the tree to grow naturally without staking. The Eucalyptus needs to grow a strong trunk system if it is to survive in windy conditions. After the tree has become established, it will require very little care.

Growers who prune their Eucalyptus know that this tree will sprout new growth on the larger limbs when it is cut. However, it is extremely important to not prune Eucalyptus in the fall months if your area is prone to cold weather. The limbs that are pruned need time to heal as frost can damage the cut site which can kill the entire tree. Remove the lower limbs of the tree only after they have died naturally. The Eucalyptus is known to be top heavy and needs the lower limbs to keep it stable.

North American growers are discovering quickly at how well the Eucalyptus tree adapts to different climate zones. The aroma of the leaves is enjoyed in floral arrangements and can be added to essential oils. The leaves are commonly used as a natural flea repellant in homes that have pets. Because of their beauty, the many uses and fast growth, the Eucalyptus tree is becoming one of the most popular trees among homeowners.

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How to grow bamboo without letting it take over your yard

When it comes to Bamboo, you either love it or hate it. Bamboo is truly a wonderful plant for the landscape. Depending on cultivar Bamboos can be 2-3 feet high ground covers great for erosion control to looming 60 foot tall monster timber with that enchanting, hollow tube sound when the high winds blow about and set them to swaying gracefully. Bamboo can be used as single specimens or for natural fencing, windbreaks, thick hedges, for screening unsightly views and as sound barriers. Unfortunately, it tends toward being rather invasive, thus we have a love-hate thing going.

This is unfortunate but being creative gardeners who never take no for an answer there must be a solution. So, how can a gardener have the lovely plant that is Bamboo in the landscape without allowing it free-rein? As any good gardener knows we are the ones in control and we can make Bamboo do things our way once we know a few tricks. Bamboo comes in two forms the clump forming and the running type. First, if you want a Bamboo that can be restrained without too much trouble run from the running type and latch onto the clump forming varieties. These are much easier to contain and many are slow growing. Having said that, there are still some things you can do to keep even running Bamboo from taking over.

It helps to know what will make them grow faster and what slows the growth. For instance, Bamboo grows to its highest limits if given ample moisture, provided with fertilizer and allowed to ramble. Deprive them of all these and you have a good chance of keeping them in check. Keep it thirsty and grow it in poor soil, devoid of nutrients and the Bamboo will behave. Planting Bamboo within a heavy metal barrier or large pots will confine the growth as well.

Bamboos are a bit of a contradiction as they like moisture but won’t grow in water and while they can be rather drought tolerant once established their rhizomes won’t spread into dry soil. Knowing this we might want to do some creative landscaping. How? Well, have you ever considered having a moat in your yard? Hear this out before you question my sanity. Planting the running form of Bamboo on a high spot and then making a ring of water around it would keep the Bamboo from going anywhere. The water would work well to keep it in-bounds and it’ll look extraordinarily new and different in the yard, like a tiny Bamboo island in the middle of a little pond. You could substitute dry sand if you prefer and it will accomplish the same thing, keeping the plant from expanding. Do you know anyone else with a moat in their landscape? You’ll be the talk of the neighborhood.

But if that’s too bizarre, you can still grow Bamboo in tubs, in sandy, poor soil and deprived of a bit of water and fertilizer. Now that’s how to have your Bamboo and the rest of your yard, too. Go for it!

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How to grow celery – Part 1

Many will tell you that celery is the gardener’s challenge, but really you don’t have to be a professional gardener to grow this crunchy snack. Here are some simple tips to help you grow celery from seed.

1) Plan to plant your celery in early spring. Because celery seeds are small and hard to manage and need for a long growing season, will probably want to start them indoors. Using potting soil, fill some shallow trays with dirt. I use cardboard egg cartons because then I can just pop the sprout out when I am ready to transplant.

2) Sprinkle the celery seeds on the surface of the potting soil. Remember, the more space you can put between the seeds, the easier it will be to transplant them. Don’t worry about covering them with dirt.

3) Water the seeds with a gentle, indirect flow of water. Do this daily and make sure the soil stays moist. You should begin to see sprouts within a week.

4) In two to three weeks, the sprouts will be bigger, but will probably still have only 2 leaves. This is the time to very gently transplant them if they are clumped together. Despite my best efforts, the celery always manages to sprout in close clumps. In order to transplant them, I make sure the soil is slightly moist, but not damp, and carefully pop the clump out of the egg carton. The soil normally falls away and I am left with little naked sprouts which I then replant in newspaper planters, disposable plastic cups, or another trusty egg carton, this time one per hole.

If the danger of frost is over, you can plant them directly outside and space them 8-10 inches apart. They will continue to need lots of water, so it would help the celery if the soil is more spongy than clay-like and if you plant them in the valley of a shallow trench. The trench not only helps retain water, but it will also help the celery grow straight and tall while allowing you to “blanch” it as it grows. At this point, the sprouts are still very fragile and so indirect watering should be continued.

5) Around week four, your sprouts should have grown a third leaf that looks more like celery. Most people will choose to plant them outside once they have added a few more leaves and are about 3 inches tall.

6) After you have planted your celery outside, make sure you water it daily, but don’t over water.

7) Throughout the summer, you can cut stalks off of the outside of the plant and use them. If they haven’t been blanched, they will have a stronger flavor and you will not require as much in recipes.

8) As the celery grows, you may want to push dirt up around the stalk. This will help the celery grow straight and will also transform the stalk from a bright green, to the more traditional celery color. This process is called blanching and it can also be accomplished by wrapping newspaper or packing paper around the stalk, leaving the top portion with the leaves uncovered.

9) Harvest takes place at the end of the summer. To harvest, cut the stalks off as one unit, taking the top of the root bulb with them. Wash the celery in cold water. If you decided not to blanch your celery, store it in the fridge for a few weeks and it will blanch itself.

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How to grow okra – Part 1

Okra originally grew wild in Africa where it is a popular vegetable. It best eaten raw from the garden, used as a thickener in soups, deep fried, or pickled. It also tastes good cooked up with other vegetables. It is a staple vegetable of the south in the USA.

Okra seed is a slow germinator due to the hard outer shell covering it. Soaking the seeds overnight in warm water helps to soften the outer shell. You can also place the seed in the freezer. When the seed freezes, it expands and the outer shell cracks. Both methods are effective to make germination occur faster.

When preparing the planting site for okra, mix 10-10-10 fertilizer into the ground according to the packaging instructions, a week or so before planting. Okra produces well with aged animal manure too. Water the area well. Check the PH of the soil as it should be between 6.5 and 7.5. Make adjustments to give the okra the optimal growing medium.

Okra needs full sun the whole day to grow well. The soil must be very warm and the nights above fifty-five degrees. okra does not like to be cold. You may have to plant your seedlings in a bit cooler conditions in the north, but the ground temperature must be over sixty-five degrees or the plants will die. You should put light weight crop covers over the seedlings to protect them in the north. This will keep the ground warm at night and protect the seedlings from any sudden blasts of cool or cold air. Take the row covers off when the soil is consistently warm.

It is important to thin the okra out so there is one foot between each plant and three to four feet between rows. The plants need room to grow as they top out at six to eight feet tall. Mulch the rows heavily to keep weeds down and to conserve moisture. If there is little rainfall, water at least an inch a week in the north. Water more in the south. Fertilizer by side dressing after thinning the plants and then fertilize again in the middle of the growing season.

Okra is a member of the hibiscus family and has beautiful flowers. Depending on the variety, the flowers are an ivory or creamy yellow to red in color. They have a reddish purple throat and last only one day. But what a day! On sunny says you will see swarms of bees having a busy time at the lovely okra blossoms.

There are a number of pests in the form of aphids, beetles and caterpillars that can damage okra plants. There are numerous chemicals and natural products that will eliminate the pest that damaging the okra. It is best to consult with your extension service agent or farm store manager to get the right product to get rid of the pest. Generally though, pests are not a problem especially when the okra is healthy to begin with.

Okra is one of those plants that produce continuously. Pick the pods when they are still immature and tender, it will encourage production as well as be better eating. The pods are two to four inches long when they are ready to be picked. Picking every other day will induce production of blossoms and ensure continuous production over the season. In the north you have a shorter growing season, therefore there will be less of a yield. The south will have a more continuous crop and a much higher yield.

Okra has a spines on the leaves and pods so it extremely advisable to wear gloves and long sleeved shirts when harvesting. Also cut the pods off at the stem just above the cap to encourage more blossoming.

With the right preparation and care, you will have a good crop of okra even in the northern states. Enjoy fresh okra when it is at its best and grow enough to freeze to use in the winter.

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How to grow and care for cherry trees

Cherry trees are an attractive all-season tree and have an unbeatable combination of beautiful blooms and sweet, tasty treats.

There are three basic types of Cherries: black, red or yellow. Fruits of all three varieties may have firm or soft flesh.

Soft-fleshed Cherries are less prone to fruit splitting, while firm-fleshed one hold their shape better during harvest and cooking.

With the exception of the Stella’ and Sunburst’

varieties which are self pollinating, all Cherry trees must be planted with a compatible variety in order for pollination to occur. Most trees are large, although a few varieties are available as dwarfs.

All trees produce pink or white blooms in spring followed by fruit. Depending upon the variety, harvest may occur in early or very late summer.

To plant your Cherry tree you will need:

Bareroot Cherry tree

Spade

Compost

Secateurs

Stake

1.

In a sunny spot, dig a hole one and a half times as wide and twice as deep as the roots. Mix in some compost with soil from the hole.

How to grow and care for cherry trees

2.

Prune to one trunk (central leader) with two to four side branches growing at 45 degree angles from the trunk.

Trim the branches back 20-30cm.

3.

Mound some of the soil mix in the center of the hole. Spread the roots over the mound, making sure the tree trunk is slightly raised above the ground level.

4.

Place a wooden stake in the mound 5-8cm from the tree, making sure the roots are safe from the stake. Firm the soil around the stake.

5.

Slowly fill in the hole with the soil in 8cm layers, patting down the soil as you go to eliminate any air pockets.

Water thoroughly.

Harvest Cherries by cutting, never by pulling them off the branches. Eat or freeze the immediately for the best flavor.

Too much nitrogen will weaken Cherry trees. If growth is poor, apply an all-purpose fertilizer according to the directions on the packet. Dig 10-15cm deep holes and pour into the holes.

Cherry trees should be watered regularly and never allowed to dry out. Sudden watering can cause fruit to split.

Older trees should be pruned in summer to reduce foliage and increase the number of fruit buds.

When buying Cherry trees, buy bareroot

trees that are 1-1.5 meters tall with trunks around 2cm thick. Plant bareroot trees in autumn or winter and container grown trees can be planted at any time.

Do not buy dried out bareroot trees with more than one prominent trunk.

Cherry trees do best when planted in rich, well-drained soil, in full sun and protected from wind. Where possible, plant Cherry trees on a slope to ensure good drainage. Trees with continually wet roots will be short lived.

If planting more than one variety, space the trees 6 meters apart. Dwarf trees can be planted 4 meters apart. Healthy trees grow about 30 cm each year. If your tree is slower, or shows signs of leaf yellowing, test the soil for deficiencies.

Some seasonal tips

Winter:

Planting

Soak bareroot Cherry trees in a tub of water overnight before planting.

Early summer: Watering

Prevent Cherry fruits from splitting by not allowing the tree roots to dry out.

Summer:

Harvesting and pruning

Harvest Cherries by cutting when the fruits are just soft to the touch. During the first four or five years of growth, prune lightly when needed to take out damaged branches, suckers and vertical branches.

Later, prune mature Cherry trees to restrict new growth and to induce the formation of fruit buds.

Leaf spot is a fungal disease that dots the leaves with small, tan spots edged in purple.

Control leaf spot by removing and destroying all fallen leaves before winter. Spray with a fungicide when blooms first appear and weekly during bloom.

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How to grow tea at home – Part 1

Many of us are aware that it is quite easy to produce herbal teas such as peppermint and chamomile from the home garden, but did you know that it is also possible to easily produce your own black, green and oolong teas? It’s as simple as successfully cultivating the tea tree: Camellia sinensis; then harvesting and drying the leaves. No specialized equipment or processes are required. The catch is that there can be a number of years between propagation of your plants and enjoying your own tea.

Camellia sinensis can be grown with difficulty from seed; however more success can be obtained by buying an established plant or growing from cuttings taken from a viable donor. It grows best in moist, well drained, and neutral to slightly acid soil. Peat moss and coarse-grained sand should be added to the soil to produce a more suitable substrate for growth. As a native of the tropics, this plant prefers a warmer climate, and therefore thrives best in the South. It should be planted either in full sun or part shade and any available protection should be used to shield it from the wind. It will grow successfully in a large pot, but it should be noted that the plant may grow up to around 30ft tall if left untended. Ideally Camellia sinensis should be pruned regularly to a height of around 6ft. This has both the purpose of stimulating new growth and also allowing for easy access to young leaves. When the tree is mature and ready to harvest, usually around three to five years after germination; the younger, lighter colored leaves provide the best flavor. Therefore, to produce the most flavorsome tea, you should focus on picking only the bud and the first two leaves.

Once you have harvested the leaves, they will need a small amount of preparation. The main consideration in processing is the level of oxidation you would prefer in the final product.

Processing can be reduced to 5 major steps:

1. Initial drying: Place the leaves on a tray in a cool dry place for 8 to 24 hours to wilt them, ready for the next step.

2. Oxidation: Oxidation is the reaction that occurs when enzymes present in the leaf are exposed to air due to bruising or crushing. It produces a copper hue, and changes the flavor of the tea. For example, black tea is completely oxidized; so to create a black tea, step 2 would involve crushing the leaves and laying them in a cool place overnight until they become a uniform copper color. On the other hand, green tea is not allowed to oxidize at all, so this step would be skipped entirely. You can also experiment with partially oxidized leaves to produce oolong style teas.

3. Steaming: Steaming the leaves halts the oxidation process, locking in the flavor that you have created.

4. Final Drying: Place the leaves on a tray for 3-5 days or until completely dry.

5. Congratulations, enjoy your tea!

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How to grow summer and winter lettuces in your garden

TO GROW SUMMER AND WINTER LETTUCES IN YOUR GARDEN

The key to growing lettuce year-round is to plant varieties that suit your climate, plant seeds every couple of weeks, and keep them in full sun to partial shade. Have some seed catalogs sent to your home and you will be stunned at the types of lettuce you can grow.

But first you have a few decisions to make.

WHERE TO PLANT

A lovely plant that grow nicely in pots as well as directly in a garden, lettuce can even be used as a border to an ornamental garden.

Lettuce thrives when the average daily temperature is between 60 and 70F so if you deal with snow or intense heat a container garden could be an option. Put the pots on wheels and they can be moved around to provide the most ideal growing conditions.

The lucky among us with an actual garden can use several tricks to encourage a good lettuce crop. There are materials available that can be draped over your plants to heat or cool them, as needed. In the heat of summer plant your lettuce in the shade of taller plants or cover it with shade cloth, and a cold frame would be an excellent choice to get the most out of your snowy winter garden.

TYPES TO GROW

There are several types of lettuce, but for a year-round harvest the best choice is loose leaf because it makes lacy little circles of leaves that never form heads. As you harvest tender young leaves from the crown of each plant the large outer leaves are left intact and act as feeder leaves for the plant. For summer production select varieties described as bolt resistant.

Combining tasty greens of mild and spicy flavors, crunchy and smooth textures with names like Deer Tongue, Oakleaf, Tango, Red Sails, Salad Bowl, Russian Kale, Garden Cress, Mizuna and Endive to your garden will ensure your salad will be full of color, flavor, nutrition, and antioxidants. Often called mesclun, seed packets containing these exciting combinations are readily available from seed catalogs. The bitter ones have the most antioxidants.

PLANT SEEDS & THIN SEEDLINGS

Plant short rows or scatter your mix in a large pot; make sure the pot is on wheels. Thin plants as they mature according to the directions on the seed packet; usually to 1″ apart. The easiest way to thin the plants is to use tiny scissors to snip them at soil level to avoid disturbing the roots.

Replant as the patch ages, every 30 to 60 days. Lettuce seed germinates best when temperatures are 55 to 80 degrees.

SOIL & WATER & FERTILIZER & WEEDS

Lettuce requires fertile well-drained soil and regular watering. A little water every day is good; be careful not to over water which can cause the leaves to rot at the base. Feed and compost regularly. Weed daily, if possible.

HARVEST

Use a sharp knife or scissors in the morning after everything has dried to harvest tender crown growth as mentioned above. But to ensure new crown growth, never pick the most central growing tip. During summer heat keep your plants well watered, shaded, and harvest frequently.

Using seeds for plants best suited for your climate and succession gardening you can have fresh salad anytime your mouth desires.

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How to grow okra – Part 2

Okra is a warm loving vegetable that grows abundantly in North America, especially in the Southern states. I can attest that it is the one plant that I never have to worry with in my garden. If you are new at gardening and live in a warm climate, okra is the perfect vegetable-bearing plant to practice with. This amazing vegetable has a distinct flavor that is a Southern delicacy when battered and fried or added to a big pot of gumbo. The plant when mature can grow fairly tall and produces a beautiful bloom that resembles a hibiscus flower.

PREPARATION & SOWING

To achieve the best looking and highly productive plants, plant okra in fertile soil and in full sunlight. The soil needs to be well drained and loose; mine grows superbly in the Florida sandy ground. To create a fertile soil, add fertilizer or organic matter to the soil before planting. I add all natural manure straight from the pasture and till it into the earth before the seeds go into the ground.

How to grow okra Part 2

The seeds should only be planted after all danger of frost has passed in the spring or planted at least three months before any fall frost is normally expected. The seeds can be placed in rows approximately two inches apart and about one inch deep. The plants can then be thinned out to about one foot apart when they have started to grow.

While okra tends to grow best from seed, the plants can be transplanted. This is an excellent option for cooler climates as you will have a head start on the plant while the ground is warming. Start the seeds in small containers approximate 4 weeks before ready to plant into the garden. When transplanting, be extra careful not to disturb the roots before placing into the ground.

CARE

Okra can thrive for several days, up to a week, in dry soil. During times with no rainfall or drought, the plants should be watered every seven days. Most gardeners will fertilize their plants at least once a month or after the first harvest. A natural fertilizer of fish emulsion or seaweed works well with okra. About six to eight weeks after planting, the plant will yield their beautiful flowers and this is the time to watch the plant closely. It will only take several days after these flowers bloom before okra will be ready to harvest.

HARVESTING

The perfect size to pick or I should say cut the okra is when the pods are no more than four inches in length, preferrably at 2 to 3 inches. As the okra matures, the pods will become tough and are practically

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